for the nose overlap to slot into. The overlaps on the nose pieces and the mating areas on the sides were bevelled using a sanding disk with regular dry fitting to insure that these pieces lined up correctly. The beading around the door has to stand proud of the side.
I always do the final assembly on that rather large piece of "C" section aluminium in the photos. There is nothing worse than assembling a model to find it rocks from corner to corner. That makes fitting trucks under it difficult and can end up with unreliable running. The aluminium is my "flat" surface plate. It also allows me to turn the model around to work on a different part while the glue is still setting elsewhere. I rub over the aluminium with candle wax before I start as this prevents glue from sticking to the plate.
The roof had to be shortened by about 1mm and then it too was glued into place. Again, it was done while the model was on the plate to make sure I didn't get a twist in the body.
The floor had to have small notches cut to line up with where the sides and ends meet so it could drop into place. This was the only work needed on the floor. Following the instructions I drilled the six holes for the self tappers to hold the floor in. With the floor screwed in place the model suddenly stiffened up and I'm now confident that no more strengthening will be needed.
I decided to photograph it now
as the next part will take quite awhile. There are a few small gaps to fill. The important ones are the join lines on the roof. These are the first ones people will spot if not done properly. So, filling and sanding and filling and sanding for awhile. Now where is my box of Milliput
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